I was one of them. Like many laymen I had wanted to see astronomical objects close-up, but could not afford a readymade telescope of adequate power. Nor was I acquainted with the owner of one. The description of the Springfield telescope solved the problem. I immediately set out to make a six-inch instrument, and I had scarcely begun to use it when half a dozen of my neighbors started telescopes of their own.

It was not a very good instrument by the standards of present-day amateurs, but it showed the markings of Jupiter and the polar caps of Mars. The fact that scattered light gave the field of view a bluish cast which tended to wash out the contrast, and that the stars wore curious little tails, detracted not a bit from the satisfaction of observing. So far as I knew this was the normal appearance of the sky when it is viewed through telescope! Over the years I made and used better instruments, and on one occasion I even enjoyed a turn at the eyepiece of the 60-inch reflector on Mount Wilson. By then, however, I had found observing almost routine. Even the Mount Wilson experience did not give me the same thrill as that first squint through my crude six-incher.

In my opinion the beginner should not attempt to make a really good telescope on the first try. Too many who do grow discouraged and abandon the project in midstream. The application of the tests and figuring techniques through which the surface of the principal mirror is brought to optical perfection is a fine art that is mastered by few. I have made more than 50 mirrors and have yet to polish a glass with a perfect figure to the very edge. For all but the most talented opticians neither the tests nor the techniques are exact. After misinterpreting test patterns and misapplying figuring techniques for some months the beginner is tempted to give up the project as impossible and discard a mirror that would operate beautifully if used. Conversely, spurious test-effects have been known to trick veteran amateurs into turning out crude mirrors by the score under the prideful illusion that each was perfect. That such mirrors work satisfactorily is a tribute to the marvelous accommodation of the eye and to lack of discrimination on the part of the observer.

Beginners may nonetheless undertake the construction of a reflecting telescope with every expectation of success. If the amateur has enough strength and mechanical ability to grind two blocks of glass together, his efforts will be rewarded by an instrument far superior to that used by Galileo. He need not concern himself either with tests or elusive figuring techniques.

The simplest reflecting telescope consists of four major subassemblies: an objective mirror which collects light and reflects it to a focus, a flat diagonal mirror which bends the focused rays at a right angle so that the image can be observed without obstructing the incoming light, a magnifying lens or eyepiece through which the image is examined and a movable framework or mounting which supports the optical elements in alignment and trains them on the sky. About half the cost of the finished telescope, both in money and in labor, is represented by the objective mirror.

The mounting can be made by almost any combination of materials that chances to be handy: wood, pipe, sheet metal, discarded machine parts and so on, depending upon the resourcefulness and fancy of the builder. The mounting designed by Roger Hayward, illustrated above, is representative. The dimensions may be varied according to the requirements of construction.

Materials for the objective and diagonal mirrors are available in kit form from dealers in optical supplies such as the Edmund Scientific Corp. of Barrington, N.J., and A. Jaegers of Lynbrook, N.Y. Amateurs with access to machine tools can also make the required eyepieces. The construction is rather tedious, however, and ready-made eyepieces are so inexpensive that few amateurs bother to make their own.

The beginner is urged to start with a six-inch mirror. Those of smaller size do not perform well unless they are skillfully made, and the difficulty of handling larger ones increases disproportionately. Kits for six-inch mirrors retail for about $10. They include two thick glass "blanks," one for the objective mirror and one (called the tool) on which the mirror is ground. The kits also supply a small rectangle of flat plate-glass that serves as the diagonal, a series of abrasive powders ranging from coarse to fine, a supply of optical rouge for polishing and a quantity of pine pitch.

As Russell Porter explained 34 years ago, "In the reflecting telescope, the mirror's the thing. No matter how elaborate and accurate the rest of the instrument, if it has a poor mirror, it is hopeless." Fortunately it is all but impossible to make a really poor mirror if one follows a few simple directions with reasonable care. The idea is to grind one face of the six-inch mirror-blank to a shallow curve about a 16th of an inch deep, polish it to a concave spherical surface and then, by additional polishing, deepen it increasingly toward the center so that the spherical curve becomes a paraboloid. The spherical curve is formed by placing the mirror blank on the tool, with wet abrasive between the two, and simply grinding the mirror over the tool in straight back-and-forth strokes. Nature comes to the aid of the mirror-maker in achieving the desired sphere, because glass grinds fastest at the points of greatest pressure between the two disks. During a portion of each stroke the mirror overhangs the tool; maximum pressure develops in the central portion of the mirror, where it is supported by the edge of the tool. Hence the center of the mirror and edge of the tool grind fastest, the mirror becoming concave and the tool convex. As grinding proceeds, the worker periodically turns the tool slightly in one direction and the mirror in the other. In consequence the concavity assumes the form of a perfect sphere because only mating spherical curves remain everywhere in contact when moved over each other in every possible direction. Any departure from a true sphere is quickly and automatically ground away because abnormal pressure develops at the high point and accelerates local abrasion.

The grinding can be performed in any convenient location that is free of dust and close to a supply of water. The operation tends to become somewhat messy, so a reasonably clean basement or garage is preferable to a kitchen or other household room.

A support for the tool is made first. This may consist of a disk of wood roughly half an inch thick fastened to the center of a square of the same material about a foot on a side. The diameter of the wooden disk should be about half an inch smaller than that of the tool. All surfaces of this fixture, except the exposed face of the wooden disk, should receive two coats of shellac. The glass tool is then cemented symmetrically to the unfinished face of the wooden disk by means of pitch. Melt a small quantity of pitch in any handy vessel. Warm the tool for five minutes in reasonably hot water, then dry it and rub one face lightly with a tuft of cotton saturated with turpentine. Now pour a tablespoon of melted pitch on the unfinished face of the wooden disk and press the tool against it so that pitch squeezes out all around the joint. After the tool and supporting fixture cool, they are a unit that can be removed from the bench conveniently for cleaning, which is frequently needed. Some workers prefer to attach the wooden disk to a large circular base. The base is then secured to the bench between three wooden cleats spaced 120 degrees apart. This arrangement permits the base to be rotated conveniently.

The tool assembly is now fastened on the corner of a sturdy bench or other working support, and a teaspoon of the coarsest abrasive is sprinkled evenly over the surface of the glass. A small salt-shaker makes a convenient dispenser for abrasives. The starting abrasive is usually No. 80 Carborundum, the grains of which are about the size of those of granulated sugar. A teaspoon of water is added to the abrasive at the center of the tool and the mirror lowered gently on the tool. The mirror is grasped at the edges with both hands; pressure is applied by the palms. It is pushed away from the worker by the base of the thumbs and pulled forward by the fingertips. The length of the grinding strokes should be half the diameter of the mirror. In the case of a six-inch mirror the strokes are three inches long-a maximum excursion of an inch and a half each side of the center. The motion should be smooth and straight, center over center, as depicted in the drawing above. Simultaneously a slight turn is imparted to the mirror during each stroke to complete a full revolution in about 30 strokes. The tool should also be turned slightly in the opposite direction every 10 or 12 strokes, or, if he prefers, the worker may shift his position around the tool. Learn to judge the length of the stroke. Do not limit it by means of a mechanical stop. Beginners will tend to overshoot and undershoot the prescribed distance somewhat, but these errors average out.

Fresh Carborundum cuts effectively, and the grinding is accompanied by a characteristic gritty sound. Initially the work has a smooth, well-lubricated feel. After a few minutes the gritty sound tends to soften and the work has a gummy feel. Stop at this point, add another teaspoon of water and resume grinding until the work again feels gummy. Both the mirror and tool are removed from the bench and washed free of "mud," the mixture of pulverized glass and powdered abrasive that results from grinding. This marks the end of the first "wet." Fresh Carborundum is now applied, and the procedure is continued for three additional wets. The stroke is then shortened to a third of the diameter of the mirror (two inches in the case of a six-inch mirror) for two more wets. The mirror should now show a uniformly ground surface to the edge of the disk in every direction. If not, continue grinding until this is achieved.

The ground surface now has the form of a shallow curve and must be tested for focal length. This is easily accomplished on a sunny day. The test equipment consists of a square of light-colored cardboard about a foot across which serves as a screen on which the image of the sun is projected, and a supply of water to wet the roughly ground surface of the mirror and thus improve its effectiveness as a reflector. Stand the cardboard on edge at a height of about six feet so that one side faces the sun squarely; then take a position on the shady side about 10 feet from the screen. Dip the mirror in the water and, with the ground surface facing the sun, reflect sunlight onto the screen. The image will appear as a fuzzy disk of light, doubtless somewhat smaller than the diameter of the mirror. The size of the image will change as the mirror is moved toward or away from the screen. Find the distance at which it is minimum. This is the approximate focal length of the mirror. At this stage of grinding, the focal length will doubtless be of the order of 15 feet. The object is to shorten it to six feet by additional grinding. Wash the tool, apply fresh abrasive, grind for five minutes and repeat the test. It is advisable to make a chart on which the focal length is recorded after each spell of grinding. The chart aids in judging progress toward the goal of six feet. When the desired focal length is attained, thoroughly scrub the mirror, tool, bench, utensils and all other objects likely to be contaminated with No. S0 abrasive. Grinding is then continued with successively finer grades of abrasive. The same stroke is used: two inches in length and center-over-center. Usually the second grade is No. 180, which has the texture of finely powdered sand. The grinding technique is precisely the same for all subsequent grades of abrasive; each stage of grinding is continued until all pits made in the glass by the preceding grade have been removed. Usually six wets with each grade is adequate. On the average each wet will require about 15 minutes of grinding. Examine the ground surface by means of a magnifying glass after the sixth wet. If any pits larger than average are found, continue grinding for another wet or two and examine again. Persist until all pits larger than average disappear. There is one exception to this procedure. Sometimes a stray grain of No. 80 or one of the intermediate grades will find its way into work that has reached the terminal stages of fine grinding. A scratch or groove will appear that is so deep that it cannot be removed by a reasonable amount of fine grinding. The only solution is to return to the offending grade and repeat all the intermediate work. Gloves are notorious grit-catchers. Never wear them when grinding. Try to prevent clothing from coming into contact with loose grit. Abrasives supplied with representative kits include Nos. 80, 180, 220, 280, 400, 600, FFF and rouge.

The beginner is urged to purchase an extra mirror-blank. The object is to make two mirrors simultaneously, select one for immediate use and reserve the second for subsequent refinement. Those following this suggestion should grind the mirrors alternately. Complete a wet of a given grade on the first mirror and proceed with the same wet on the second. After all grinding is completed, the mirrors are polished independently.

The operations of grinding and polishing glass are similar in that both require the use of a material which is harder than glass. In grinding, the abrasive material is used between a pair of hard surfaces, either two pieces of glass or glass and cast iron. In rolling between the surfaces under pressure the hard particles erode the glass by causing tiny conchoidal fractures in its surface. Glass can be polished with the same hard particles merely by replacing the hard tool with an appropriately soft and yielding one. The theory of the polishing action is not well understood. It is clear, however, that the abrasive particles do not roll. Held firmly by a yielding medium, their protruding edges may act like the blade of a plane.

Most amateurs use a polishing tool, or "lap," of pine pitch divided into a pattern of facets and charged with rouge. To make the facets, pitch is first cast into strips about an inch wide, a quarter of an inch thick and eight or 10 inches long. An adequate mold of wood (lined with moist paper to prevent the strips of pitch from sticking) is depicted in Figure 3. Melt the pitch over a hotplate, not over a direct flame. Do not overheat the pitch; it burns easily. The fumes (largely vaporized turpentine) are highly combustible, so prevent direct flame from reaching the open part of the container.

The strips of cool pitch are cut into square facets by means of a hot knife and stuck to the ground surface of the tool in a checkerboard pattern as shown Begin by locating one facet somewhat off-center in the middle of the tool, and work outward. Adhesion is improved by first warming the tool, smearing it with a film of turpentine and warming the face of each square of pitch before placing it in contact with the glass. The pitch facets should be beveled, which can be accomplished in part by cutting the edges of the wooden divider-strips of the mold at an angle. This also facilitates the removal of the strips from the mold. Pitch yields under pressure, so unless the facets are beveled the space between adjacent facets soon closes during the polishing operation.

Trim all boundary facets flush with the edge of the tool by means of the hot knife. Then invert the completed lap in a pan of warm water for 10 minutes. While the pitch is warming, place a heaping tablespoon of rouge in a clean wide-mouthed jar fitted with a screw cap, and add enough water to form a creamy mixture. Remove the lap from the pan, blot it dry and, with a quarter-inch brush of the kind used with water colors, paint the pitch facets with rouge. Now place the mirror gently and squarely on the lap and apply about five pounds of evenly distributed weight to the mirror for half an hour until the pitch facets yield enough to conform with the curve of the glass. This process is called cold-pressing. At the end of the cold-pressing interval slide the mirror from the lap and bevel the edge facets to remove any bulges that have formed.

The mirror must now be fitted with a shield to insulate it from the heat of the worker's hands. In the case of a six-inch mirror cut a disk of corrugated cardboard eight inches in diameter and notch its edge every inch or so to a depth of one inch. Center the cardboard on the unground side of the mirror, press the notched edges down along the side of the glass and secure them with several turns of adhesive tape. The cardboard form now resembles the lid of a wide-mouthed jar.

Paint the facets with fresh rouge, add half a teaspoon of water to the center of the lap and, with the heat-insulating shield in place, lower the mirror gently onto the lap. Polishing proceeds with strokes identical with those used in grinding; they are two inches long and center-over-center. When the work develops a heavy feel, stop, add half a teaspoon of water and resume. Continue polishing for 20 minutes. Then cold-press for 10 minutes. Proceed with this alternating routine until no pits can be detected when the surface is examined with a high-powered magnifying glass. If the fine grinding has been performed as directed, the mirror can be brought to full polish in three hours or less. When work must be suspended for some hours, coat the lap with rouge and cold-press without added weight. It is well to brace the mirror around the edges when it remains on the lap for some hours, because pitch flows slowly and may deposit an unbraced mirror on the floor.

The shape of the mirror is now close to a perfect sphere. The center will doubtless have a somewhat longer radius than the region near the edge. Precisely the reverse situation is desired: a curve whose radius increases from the center outward. A minute thickness of glass must therefore be removed from the center of the mirror and a somewhat lesser amount removed toward the edge; The mirror is put back on the lap and, with a fresh charge of rouge, polished by a modified stroke. The length of the stroke is not altered, but the mirror is now made to follow a zigzag course laterally across the lap at right angles to the worker. The first stroke follows the conventional center-over-center course away from the worker but on the return stroke and subsequent strokes it is pushed about an inch to the right side. It is then gradually worked back across the center until it overhangs the lap on the left hand side by an inch. This operation is repeated over and over for 15 minutes. Simultaneously the mirror is, rotated slightly in one direction during each stroke and the tool is periodically, rotated in the other direction to distribute the abrasive action uniformly.

After a thorough cleaning the mirror is ready for silvering. Amateurs formerly coated their mirrors at home. But silver is difficult to apply and tarnishes quickly. Most reflecting telescopes are now aluminized, a process too tricky to be undertaken by beginners. The mirror is placed in a highly evacuated chamber and bombarded with vaporized aluminum. On being exposed to air the metal acquires a transparent and durable film of oxide. Firms that specialize in this work charge about $5 to aluminize a six-inch mirror. The beginner is urged to have both his objective mirror and the diagonal coated in this way.

The mounting may be constructed while the mirrors are being coated. In designing the mounting never permit appearance to compromise sturdiness. This telescope will have a maximum magnifying power of about 250 diameters and any jiggle arising in the mounting will be magnified proportionately. The objective mirror is supported in a wooden cell fitted with screw adjustments, as shown in detail above. Fine-grinding and polishing will have reduced the focal length to about five feet. The center of the diagonal mirror is spaced approximately six inches from the focal point of the objective (about 4.5 feet from the objective), thus bending a six-inch cone of rays into the eyepiece, as shown in detail above.

After assembly the optical elements must be aligned. Remove the eyepiece, look through the tube in which it slides and adjust the diagonal mirror until the objective mirror is centered in the field of view. Then adjust the tilt of the objective mirror until the reflected image of the diagonal mirror is centered. Replace the eyepiece in its tube and you are in business.

Those who construct this telescope will ultimately discover that it is not the best that can be built. To improve it consult the books recommended in the bibliography below and tackle the fine art of figuring the second mirror by means of the fascinating tests and techniques described therein.

Bibliography

AMATEUR TELESCOPE MAKING. Edited by Albert G. Ingalls. Scientific American, Inc., 1943.

AMATEUR TELESCOPE MAKING-ADVANCED. Edited by Albert G. Ingalls. Scientific American, Inc., 1944.

Suppliers and Organizations

The Society for Amateur Scientists
5600 Post Road, #114-341
East Greenwich, RI 02818
Phone: 1-401-823-7800

Internet: http://www.sas.org/